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Our Pick: Best Bee Trap

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The Best Carpenter Bee Traps (2026)

Our pick is the Best Bee Trap wood carpenter bee trap (about $26): a plain pine box with angled entry holes and a screw-on jar, built on the one design that has consistently caught bees for us, and priced so you can hang three of them along a problem eave. If you want a step up, the Best Bee Brothers Turbo Trap 2.0 (about $40) adds a larger catch chamber and a mounting design meant for the peak of a gable. If you want the cheapest way to find out whether trapping works on your house, the Bee Warehouse trap runs about $18.

By The BeehiveKits Hive Desk2026-08-29~13 min read Fact-checked against verified Amazon listingsHow we research

Best Bee Trap Wood Carpenter Bee TrapBest Overall

Best Bee Trap Wood Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Trap · 4.6

~$26

Bee Warehouse Carpenter Bee TrapBest Value

Bee Warehouse Carpenter Bee Trap

Bee Warehouse · 4.1

~$18

Shed Style Nature Hanging Carpenter Bee TrapUpgrade Pick

Shed Style Nature Hanging Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Trap · 4.2

~$48

Here is the mechanism, because understanding it is most of the battle. A carpenter bee spends her life looking for a dark tunnel of the right diameter in the right kind of wood. A trap is a decoy tunnel: angled holes drilled into a small wooden box lead into a dark chamber, and the only light the bee can see comes from below, through a clear jar or bottle screwed to the bottom. Bees escape toward light and downward, so she drops into the jar, and the jar has no angled hole to climb back out of. No bait, no chemistry, no attractant that needs replacing. The trap works because it looks and feels like the nest site she was already hunting for.

That also tells you why placement beats brand every single time. A perfect trap hung on a shady north wall catches nothing while a mediocre trap screwed six inches from a fresh hole on a sunny fascia board fills up. Every recommendation below assumes you are going to put the trap where the damage is, high, and in the sun, ideally a couple of weeks before the bees show up in spring. We spend as much of this guide on that as on the products.

One more thing we will keep saying: carpenter bees are native pollinators, not an invasive pest. The eastern carpenter bee is a large-bodied native that works flowers no honey bee can handle, and the goal here is to protect your trim, not to clear your yard of bees. Trap the ones drilling into your house. Leave the rest alone. If you want the full non-lethal path, read our guide on how to get rid of carpenter bees, which puts sealing and finishing the wood ahead of everything else.

The disclosure, plainly: no brand paid for a placement here and none saw this before publication. Some links go to Amazon; if you buy through one we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you, and it never moves a pick. Prices are approximate at publication, so check the live listing.

What to know

  • Our pick is the Best Bee Trap wood trap (about $26): the classic angled-hole box with a screw-on jar, cheap enough to hang several.
  • Traps work by mimicking a nest tunnel: dark chamber above, downward exit into a jar. No bait, no refills, no chemicals.
  • Placement is the whole game: mount at the damage, as high as you can safely reach, on a sun-facing eave, fascia, or gable peak.
  • Hang traps before spring emergence, when redbud and early fruit trees start blooming in your area, not after you see sawdust.
  • Traps beat spraying because they need no reapplication, they do not drift onto flowers, and the bees you catch are the ones actually attacking your house.
  • Traps will not save wood that is already soft, will not help on a shaded wall, and will not clear an established gallery: those need plugging and finishing.
  • Male carpenter bees hover in your face and cannot sting. The females can, and almost never do. Nobody needs to panic here.

At a glance

TrapStyleMountingBest forApprox. priceCheck price
Best Bee Trap Wood TrapClassic box, screw-on jarScrew or hangOur Pick: most houses~$26Check Price
Turbo Trap 2.0Larger chamber, upgraded catchScrew or hangHeavy pressure, gable peaks~$40Check Price
Pentroof Shed StyleSloped shed roof, green finishScrew or hangRain-exposed mounting~$26Check Price
Shed Style Hanging TrapDecorative shed with hangerHang from hookPergolas, porches, decks~$48Check Price
Bee Warehouse TrapBasic wood box with bottleScrew or hangCheapest way to test a spot~$18Check Price

The 2026 carpenter bee trap shortlist. Styles and construction are the listed manufacturer descriptions. Prices are approximate at publication, verified against our offer table in August 2026.

Our PickBest Overall
Best Bee Trap Wood Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Trap Wood Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Trap · Solid wood body · angled entry holes · clear screw-on collection jar (listed)

4.6

Our verdict: This is the trap we would buy first for almost any house. It is a small pine box with angled holes drilled into the sides, a dark interior, and a clear jar threaded onto the bottom. There is nothing clever about it and that is the point: the design has been catching carpenter bees for years, it needs no bait, and at about $26 you can afford to hang one at each end of a problem eave instead of agonizing over the single perfect location.

A trap is a lie the bee wants to believe. A female carpenter bee scouting your house is looking for a specific thing: unfinished wood, softish, with an entry she can start at a slight upward angle before turning to bore along the grain. The Best Bee Trap wood carpenter bee trap hands her that exact profile for free. She enters, the chamber above is dark, and the only light in the box comes up through the clear jar screwed underneath. Bees escaping a dark space move toward light and, in a vertical space, downward. She drops into the jar, and the jar has no angled tunnel to climb back through.

Why the jar matters more than it looks: a clear collection vessel is not just a container, it is the light source that drives the trap. Do not paint it, do not swap it for something opaque, and do not stuff it with a rag. A trap that stops catching usually has a jar clouded with debris or a mounting spot that put the jar in shadow.

Practically, this one earns the top slot on flexibility and price. The body takes a screw through the back or a hook through the top, so you can put it flush against fascia, into a soffit corner, or up at a gable peak. The jar unscrews with one hand for emptying, which you will do a few times in a heavy spring. And because it is inexpensive, you can follow the real rule of carpenter bee trapping: run several traps spread across the sunny side of the structure rather than one trap in the spot that was easiest to reach from the ladder.

Two honest caveats. First, a brand-new trap sometimes underperforms for a week or two, and many homeowners believe a trap "seasons" as it weathers and picks up the scent of the bees it has caught, so keep last year's trap rather than starting fresh every spring. Second, a trap catches the bees hunting for a nest site. It does nothing about the tunnels already bored into your trim, which need plugging in fall and a finish coat afterward; our carpenter bee removal guide walks through that in order.

Who should buy it

Buy this if you have a handful of fresh holes in a sunny eave, fascia board, deck rail, or shed and you want the lowest-risk way to intercept next spring's bees. It is also the right pick if you intend to hang several traps, which is what we would do: three of these across a problem elevation will outperform any single premium trap hung in the wrong place.

What we don't like

It is plain pine and it looks like it. On a visible porch or a front elevation, some homeowners will find it unattractive next to a decorative shed-style trap. The jar can crack if the trap takes a fall from a ladder, and the wood needs to be left unfinished to work, which means it will gray and weather over a couple of seasons. That weathering is functionally fine and cosmetically obvious.

Body
Solid wood (listed)
Mechanism
Angled entry holes into a dark chamber
Collection
Clear screw-on jar (listed)
Mounting
Screw or hang
Bait
None required
Count
1 trap
Approx. price
~$26

Pros

  • The proven angled-hole design, in real wood
  • No bait, no refills, no chemicals near flowers
  • Cheap enough to hang several along one elevation
  • Jar unscrews for one-handed emptying
  • Reusable season after season, and improves with weathering

Cons

  • Utilitarian looks on a visible elevation
  • Glass or plastic jar can break if dropped
  • Does nothing about tunnels already bored
Best for Heavy Pressure
Turbo Trap 2.0 Carpenter Bee Trap

Turbo Trap 2.0 Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Brothers · Larger-capacity design (listed) · wood construction · clear catch chamber

4.5

Our verdict: The Turbo Trap 2.0 is what you buy when one trap has to do serious work: a barn or shop with a long run of unfinished trim, a gable peak that gets hammered every April, or a homeowner who does not want to empty a jar every ten days. It costs about $40 versus about $26 for our top pick, and what you get for the difference is capacity and build, not a different mechanism.

Same physics, more room. The Turbo Trap 2.0 from Best Bee Brothers runs the identical decoy-tunnel logic as every other trap here: angled holes, dark chamber, downward exit into a clear catch vessel. What it changes is scale and construction. The listed design is built around a larger collection area and a body meant to be lag-screwed high on a structure and left there, which matters when the trap you can reach is twenty feet up and you are not putting the ladder out twice a month.

Where to put the money on a big building: if you have a barn, shop, or two-story gable with a real carpenter bee history, buy one or two of these for the peaks and fill in the lower runs with cheaper traps. Bees concentrate at the highest sunny point of a structure, which is exactly where the annual ladder trip is most annoying and where extra capacity pays for itself.

The rest of the buying logic is straightforward. Against our top pick, the Turbo Trap costs more per unit, so if your budget buys either one Turbo Trap or two Best Bee Trap wood traps, take the two traps and spread them out, unless the geometry of your building genuinely funnels everything into one peak. Against the cheap end, it is a clear upgrade in materials and in how long you can ignore it. Both statements can be true, and which one applies to you is a question about your roofline, not about the products.

Who should buy it

Buy the Turbo Trap 2.0 for barns, shops, detached garages, and any two-story gable peak where getting the ladder out is a project. It is also the right call if you have run cheaper traps before, watched them fill in a week, and decided you would rather service one trap less often.

What we don't like

It is the most expensive per-unit trap here that is not decorative, and carpenter bee trapping rewards quantity and placement more than it rewards any single premium unit. For a typical suburban house with a few holes in one fascia run, this is more trap than the problem needs. It is also physically larger, which some homeowners will notice from the driveway.

Body
Wood construction (listed)
Mechanism
Angled entry holes into a dark chamber
Collection
Enlarged clear catch chamber (listed)
Mounting
Screw or hang
Bait
None required
Approx. price
~$40

Pros

  • Larger catch capacity: longer between service trips
  • Built for permanent high mounting on a structure
  • Same no-bait, no-chemical mechanism as every pick here
  • Sensible for barns, shops, and tall gable peaks

Cons

  • Costs about the same as two basic traps
  • Physically larger and more visible
  • Overkill for a few holes on a single fascia run
Best for Rain Exposure
Green Pentroof Shed Style Carpenter Bee Trap

Green Pentroof Shed Style Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Trap · Wood body with sloped pentroof · angled entry holes · clear collection jar (listed)

4.4

Our verdict: This is our top pick wearing a raincoat. The trapping chamber and jar work identically; the difference is a sloped shed-style roof that throws water off the top and a green finish that reads as garden decor rather than pest control. At about $26, the same price as the plain box, the only reason not to buy this one is if you prefer the flat top for tucking under a tight soffit.

Water sitting on top of a trap is the slow killer. A flat-topped wooden trap mounted in the open on a fascia will pond a little water in every rain, and over two or three seasons that shows up as a swollen, splitting top panel. The Best Bee Trap pentroof carpenter bee trap solves it the way a shed does: a single sloped roof plane that sheds water away from the entry holes and the seams. If your mounting spot is out from under any overhang, on a deck post, a pergola beam, a fence line, an exposed gable face, this is the version to buy.

Rain is also why entry holes point where they do: angled entries are drilled sloping slightly upward into the body, which is both what a real carpenter bee tunnel looks like and what keeps rain from running straight into the chamber. If you ever drill supplementary holes into a homemade trap, match that angle; a level hole is a drain.

The green finish deserves a note, since a common question is whether painting a trap hurts it. Color on the outside shell is fine, and traps in a range of finishes catch bees; what matters is that the entry holes lead into raw wood and darkness, and that the jar stays clear. Do not paint the interior, do not paint over the holes, and do not paint the jar. Beyond that, aesthetics are yours. Mount it at the damage, in the sun, high, same as any other trap, and read our bee versus wasp versus hornet identification guide first if you are not certain the insects drilling your deck rail are actually carpenter bees.

Who should buy it

Buy the pentroof version for any mounting spot with no overhang above it: pergolas, deck posts, fence rails, exposed gable faces, or a shed wall that takes weather. It is also the pick if a plain unpainted box is going to bother you or your household every time you pull into the driveway.

What we don't like

The sloped roof makes it slightly awkward to tuck flush under a tight soffit corner, which is one of the better mounting spots on many houses. The green finish will fade with UV exposure, and a decorative trap still ends up holding dead bees, which is not a decorative outcome. Capacity is the same as the plain box, so heavy pressure still means frequent emptying.

Body
Wood with sloped pentroof (listed)
Finish
Green exterior (listed)
Mechanism
Angled entry holes into a dark chamber
Collection
Clear collection jar (listed)
Mounting
Screw or hang
Approx. price
~$26

Pros

  • Sloped roof sheds water on fully exposed mounts
  • Same price as the plain box, better weather life
  • Reads as garden decor from the driveway
  • Identical proven trapping mechanism

Cons

  • Sloped top fits awkwardly under tight soffits
  • Exterior finish fades with sun exposure
  • No capacity advantage over the basic trap
Upgrade PickBest for Porches and Pergolas
Shed Style Nature Hanging Carpenter Bee Trap

Shed Style Nature Hanging Carpenter Bee Trap

Best Bee Trap · Shed-style wood body · integrated hanger · clear collection jar (listed)

4.2

Our verdict: At about $48 this is the priciest trap here, and you are buying two things: a finish nice enough for a covered porch or pergola, and a hanger so you never put a screw into a beam you care about. Functionally it catches the same way as the $18 trap. If the mounting location is somewhere guests sit, that premium may be worth it to you. If it is a barn wall, it is not.

Some mounting spots are furniture. Pergola beams, covered porch rafters, screened-in deck framing, and cedar arbors all attract carpenter bees precisely because they are exposed, sunny, softwood, and often unfinished, and they are also the places where a homeowner will not tolerate a plain pine box screwed to the beam. The Best Bee Trap shed style hanging trap is the answer to that specific conflict: a decorative shed body with an integrated hanger, so it goes up on a hook and comes down again without leaving a mark.

Hanging traps need a still spot: a trap that spins and swings in the wind catches less than one that sits steady, because an approaching bee is evaluating a fixed piece of timber. Hang it from a short chain rather than a long cord, tuck it out of the prevailing wind, and if it will not stay put, screw a cheaper trap to the beam instead and accept the two holes.

Be clear-eyed about the price. Carpenter bee trapping is a numbers game, and $48 buys most of two pentroof traps hung in two different places. We would only spend it where appearance genuinely matters or where you truly cannot fasten to the structure. For the porch itself that is a reasonable trade, and it is also a reasonable gift for the relative who complains about the bees over their patio every June without ever doing anything about it. If you are shopping that direction anyway, our bee gifts and decor guide covers the rest of that aisle.

Who should buy it

Buy the hanging shed trap for covered porches, pergolas, arbors, and any beam you refuse to drill. It is also the right pick for renters who need the trap to leave no trace, and it makes a genuinely practical gift for someone with a carpenter bee problem over an outdoor seating area.

What we don't like

It is roughly double the price of a trap that catches exactly as well, which is hard to justify on function alone. Hanging traps swing in wind, which reduces catch rates in exposed locations. And a hanger limits you to spots that already have or can take a hook, ruling out the flush fascia mounting that often works best on a house.

Body
Shed-style wood (listed)
Mounting
Integrated hanger, no screws required
Mechanism
Angled entry holes into a dark chamber
Collection
Clear collection jar (listed)
Bait
None required
Approx. price
~$48

Pros

  • Looks intentional on a porch, pergola, or arbor
  • Hangs with no fasteners into finished beams
  • Comes down for winter storage in seconds
  • Same no-chemical trapping mechanism

Cons

  • Roughly double the price of an equally effective trap
  • Swings in wind, which cuts catch rate
  • Needs an existing hook or hanging point
Best ValueBest Budget
Bee Warehouse Carpenter Bee Trap

Bee Warehouse Carpenter Bee Trap

Bee Warehouse · Wood body · angled entry holes · clear collection bottle (listed)

4.1

Our verdict: At about $18 this is the entry ticket, and for a first-time carpenter bee problem it is arguably the smartest buy on the page. Trapping is an experiment about location, and two cheap traps in two different spots teach you more than one expensive trap in one spot. The build is basic and the finish is rough, but the mechanism is the same one that makes every trap here work.

Buy the experiment, not the trophy. The single most common mistake we see is a homeowner buying one nice trap, hanging it on the shady side of the garage because that is where the ladder fit, catching nothing, and concluding that traps do not work. The Bee Warehouse carpenter bee trap makes the smarter version affordable: for roughly the price of one mid-tier trap you get two, so you can hang one at the fresh holes and one at the sunniest peak, and let the bees tell you which spot matters. Next season you buy more of whatever won.

Mark your traps and keep notes: write the location and date on the bottom of each trap with a marker. Two seasons of that turns guesswork into a map of where the pressure actually is on your building, which is worth more than any upgrade in trap construction.

The compromises are real but mostly cosmetic. Expect rougher milling, a lighter body, and a collection bottle rather than a heavy jar. None of that changes the physics: angled holes, dark chamber, light below, bee in the bottle. Where it does matter is longevity, so store these under cover over winter and expect a shorter service life than the heavier traps. That is a fine trade at this price, especially since the honest goal is not to run traps forever. The goal is to trap while you fix the underlying problem, which is bare, unfinished, sun-warmed softwood on your structure.

Who should buy it

Buy the Bee Warehouse trap if this is your first carpenter bee season and you want to test two or three locations cheaply, or if you need to cover a long run of fence, rail, or shed wall and unit price is the binding constraint. It is also the right trap to leave at a cabin or rental you visit rarely.

What we don't like

The build is the lightest here: rougher wood, a lighter collection bottle, and a shorter expected life outdoors. There is no roof slope, so a fully exposed mount will weather it faster. And at this price point, quality control varies more than on the premium traps, so inspect the entry holes when it arrives and re-drill any that came through at the wrong angle.

Body
Wood (listed)
Mechanism
Angled entry holes into a dark chamber
Collection
Clear bottle (listed)
Mounting
Screw or hang
Bait
None required
Approx. price
~$18

Pros

  • Lowest price here: buy two and test two locations
  • Same decoy-tunnel mechanism as the premium traps
  • Good for long fence, rail, and shed runs
  • Low enough cost to leave at a second property

Cons

  • Lightest construction and shortest outdoor life
  • Flat top with no water-shedding roof
  • More variation unit to unit

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Quick shop: every pick

Skip the scroll: the whole lineup, with a live price check on each.

  1. Best Bee Trap Wood Carpenter Bee TrapBest OverallBest Bee Trap · ~$26Check Price
  2. Turbo Trap 2.0 Carpenter Bee TrapBest for Heavy PressureBest Bee Brothers · ~$40Check Price
  3. Green Pentroof Shed Style Carpenter Bee TrapBest for Rain ExposureBest Bee Trap · ~$26Check Price
  4. Shed Style Nature Hanging Carpenter Bee TrapBest for Porches and PergolasBest Bee Trap · ~$48Check Price
  5. Bee Warehouse Carpenter Bee TrapBest BudgetBee Warehouse · ~$18Check Price

How we chose

The design has to be the proven one. Every trap here is a wooden chamber with angled entry holes and a clear collection vessel below. We did not shortlist sticky boards, ultrasonic gadgets, or anything that needs a lure, because the tunnel-decoy design is the only one with a consistent track record in homeowner use.

Wood, not plastic, on the body. Carpenter bees are inspecting a piece of timber, and a real wood shell with real drilled holes reads correctly to them. We treated all-plastic bodies as an automatic strike against a trap.

Mounting flexibility, because the right spot is rarely convenient. A trap you can screw flush to a fascia board, hang from a soffit hook, or lag into a gable peak is a trap you can actually put where the bees are. Traps that only hang got scored down for structural work and up for porches.

Serviceability. You will empty the jar. A trap where the jar unscrews without taking the whole unit down, and where the wood body can be reused season after season, is worth more than a few dollars of unit price.

Honest about limits. We say plainly in each write-up where a trap will disappoint, and we route readers to sealing, finishing, and rebuild advice when a trap is not the answer.

Prices come from our verified offer table and are written as approximate. Construction details we cannot independently confirm are hedged as listed. No brand bought a spot in this guide.

Key terms

Carpenter bee
A large native bee in the genus Xylocopa that excavates nest tunnels in wood rather than eating it. Distinguished from a bumble bee by a shiny, hairless black abdomen. Solitary, not colonial, and an effective pollinator.
Gallery
The tunnel system a female bores into wood: a short entry at an angle, then a long turn along the grain with brood cells partitioned off inside. Galleries get extended and reused over successive years, which is why old damage predicts new damage.
Decoy tunnel
The trapping principle: a wooden box with angled entry holes that mimics the start of a natural gallery, leading into a dark chamber whose only lit exit drops into a sealed jar.
Frass
The coarse sawdust a boring female pushes out of a fresh tunnel. A small pale pile on a deck board or below a fascia is usually the first sign of an active hole overhead.
Emergence
The spring window when overwintered adults leave old tunnels and begin mating and nesting, triggered by warming temperatures. The correct time to have traps already hanging, not to start shopping for them.
Woodpecker damage
The secondary problem: woodpeckers hear larvae inside galleries and tear open the board to reach them, often doing more visible harm to trim than the bees did. Another reason to seal tunnels once activity ends.
Buzz pollination
Vibrating flight muscles against a flower to shake pollen loose, a technique carpenter bees and bumble bees use and honey bees cannot. It is why native bees matter for tomatoes, eggplant, and blueberries.

Questions, answered

do carpenter bee traps actually work

Yes, when they are placed correctly. The trap imitates the start of a nest tunnel, and a scouting female enters, drops toward the light of the jar below, and cannot climb back out. Placement decides everything: hang traps high, in direct sun, within a few feet of existing holes, and hang several rather than one. A trap on a shaded wall away from the damage will catch nothing and it is not the trap's fault.

when should i put out carpenter bee traps

Two weeks before you expect the first bees, which in most of the country means late winter to early spring as the first warm stretch arrives and early trees begin blooming. Overwintered adults emerge from old tunnels and immediately start scouting nest sites, so a trap already hanging intercepts them before a new hole gets drilled. Traps hung after you notice sawdust are still useful, just less so.

where is the best place to hang a carpenter bee trap

As high as you can safely reach, on a sun-facing surface, within a few feet of existing holes. Gable peaks, the south and west fascia, deck rail tops, and shed eaves are the classic hot spots. Avoid shaded, sheltered locations entirely. If your building has a history of damage in one specific place, put a trap there first and add others along the same elevation.

do i need bait in a carpenter bee trap

No. The trap works on geometry and light, not scent, so there is nothing to buy, mix, or refill. Some people add a dead bee from last season on the theory that residual scent helps, and traps do often perform better in their second year, but no commercial lure is required for any trap in this guide.

how many carpenter bee traps do i need

Plan on one trap per problem area rather than one per house. A typical home with damage along one elevation is well served by three: one at each end of the affected run and one at the peak. Large structures like barns and pole buildings need more, which is why we lean toward the cheaper traps and spread them out instead of buying one premium unit.

will a carpenter bee trap stop bees already in the wood

No, and this is the most common misunderstanding. A trap intercepts bees looking for a new nest site; it does nothing to a female already tunneling inside a board. Existing galleries need to be plugged after activity ends in the fall and the surface sealed or painted afterward. Traps and sealing are two different jobs on two different schedules.

are carpenter bee traps better than spray

For most homeowners, yes. Traps need no reapplication, put no residue on surfaces or nearby flowers, and target only the bees trying to nest in your structure. Insecticide treatments for wood-nesting bees generally have to be applied into the galleries themselves, which means ladder work and strict label compliance. If you do use a product, the label is a legal document and the EPA's pesticide program is the right reference.

do carpenter bees sting

Males cannot sting at all, and males are the ones that hover aggressively in front of you. Female carpenter bees do have a stinger and can use it, but they are not defensive around the nest the way social wasps are, and stings are rare outside of handling a bee or trapping one against skin. The hovering is a bluff.

how do i tell a carpenter bee from a bumble bee

Look at the abdomen. A carpenter bee's rear section is shiny, black, and mostly hairless, while a bumble bee's is fuzzy and usually banded with yellow. Behavior helps too: carpenter bees hover around wood, eaves, and rails, and bumble bees work flowers and nest in the ground or in old rodent burrows. Our identification guide lays out the full set of look-alikes.

should i kill carpenter bees at all

Trap the ones damaging your structure and leave the rest alone. Carpenter bees are native pollinators that buzz pollinate crops honey bees cannot, so the sensible position is targeted, not general. Hang traps at the building, take them down when the spring nesting window closes, and put the real effort into painting or sealing the wood so there is nothing to defend next year.